Wild colours by Teresinha Roberts

BLUES & GREENS

WOAD (Isatis tinctoria)

 

For much more information on woad, click on www.woad.org.uk

 

Woad has neon yellow flowers which appear in May and have a wonderful fragrance. The black seeds are winged and can produce a pink dye.

 

 Woad harvest starts in August. On a commercial scale, one acre of land  produces about 10 tonnes of leaves twice a year. One tonne of leaves produces 2 lb of woad powder.  Three kilos of leaves from my allotment, which is the most I can process at one time, produce just 8 g of powder!

To extract the pigment I pick and tear the leaves, steep them for 40 minutes into hot water. Then I add soda ash and whisk the liquid for 10 minutes.

 

The woad pigment is insoluble in water. It is necessary to remove the oxygen from the water to create the soluble woad. This is done either by fermentation with urine or bacteria, or by using a chemical like colour run remover. Wet fabric is dipped in the woad vat and removed after a while. The fabric is yellow when exposed to the air, and it slowly turns blue. In the past dyers who worked with woad had blue nails; I make sure I use rubber gloves.
TROPICAL DYES

INDIGO (Indigofera spp)

Dupion silk tye-died with indigo.

LOGWOOD (Haematoxylon campecianum)

Logwood sinks in water, hence its name. The tree originally comes from South America. The dye is made from wood chips harvested from 11 year old trees and it produces grey, black, violet and blue.

Dupion silk dyed with logwood.

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